Mafaldine Pasta with Sausage Ragù and Ricotta

Finely chop the onion and garlic, and lightly crush the fennel seeds with the flat of a knife or a pestle and mortar.

Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Slit the sausage skins lengthways, squeeze the meat into the pan in rough chunks and discard the skins. Leave the meat alone for 3 minutes so the underside browns, then break it into small pieces with a wooden spoon and cook for 6 to 8 minutes more, until it is golden in places and the fat has run.

Turn the heat to medium. Add the onion, fennel seeds and chilli flakes and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often and scraping up the browned bits, until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the garlic for the last minute.

Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes, until it darkens to a brick red. Add the chopped tomatoes and 100ml of water, swirling the water around the empty tin to rinse it, then bring to a simmer.

Simmer gently, uncovered, for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce is thick and glossy and a little fat shows at the edges. Taste before adding any salt, as the sausages are already seasoned. Add a splash of water if it becomes too dry.

While the ragù simmers, beat the ricotta with 20g of the Parmesan, a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons of cold water until smooth and loose enough to spoon.

Bring a large pan of water to the boil and salt it well (about 2 tablespoons for 3 litres). Cook the mafaldine for 1 minute less than the packet time, usually 9 to 11 minutes, stirring in the first minute so the ribbons do not stick together. Scoop out a mugful of the cooking water, then drain.

Tip the pasta into the ragù with 4 tablespoons of the cooking water. Toss over medium heat for 1 minute, adding a little more water if needed, until the sauce clings to the ruffled edges instead of pooling at the bottom of the pan.

Serve in warm bowls with a spoonful of ricotta on each, the remaining Parmesan, torn basil and black pepper. If you cannot find mafaldine, pappardelle or tagliatelle work in the same way.