Chicken Biryani

Cut two deep slashes into each chicken thigh, down to the bone, so the marinade can get in. Grate the ginger, crush the garlic and slit the green chillies. In a large bowl, mix the yoghurt, ginger, garlic, chillies, chilli powder, turmeric, garam masala, cumin, lemon juice, half of the mint and coriander (chopped) and 1½ teaspoons of salt. Add the chicken and massage the marinade in. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours, or overnight for the best flavour. Take it out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking.

Rinse the basmati in several changes of cold water until the water runs almost clear, then soak it in cold water for 30 minutes and drain. Crumble the saffron into the warm milk and leave it to infuse until you need it.

Slice the onions thinly and evenly. Heat the oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat and fry the onions in two batches for 12 to 15 minutes each, stirring often and lowering the heat as they colour, until deep golden brown. Take care at the end, as onions turn from golden to bitter quickly. Lift them out with a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper, where they will crisp as they cool. Keep the oil.

Spoon 2 tablespoons of the onion oil into a wide, heavy-based pot of about 26cm with a tight lid. Add the marinated chicken with all of its marinade and a third of the fried onions, crushed between your fingers. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat for 15 to 18 minutes, turning the chicken once, until it is nearly cooked and the yoghurt has reduced to a thick masala that clings to the meat. If it looks watery, uncover for the last few minutes. A wet base makes the rice soggy. Level the chicken out in the pot.

Meanwhile, bring 2.5 litres of water to the boil with the cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and 1 tablespoon of salt. Add the soaked rice and boil for 5 to 6 minutes, until about 70% cooked: the grains should snap into two or three pieces when pressed between finger and thumb and still have a firm core. Drain at once and do not rinse.

Spread the rice over the chicken in an even layer without pressing it down. Scatter over the remaining fried onions, mint and coriander, drizzle the saffron milk in patches and dot with the ghee.

Cover the pot with foil, then press the lid on top to seal in the steam. Set it over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until you can hear and see steam escaping, then turn the heat to its lowest setting and cook for 25 minutes. A heat diffuser or flat griddle pan under the pot stops the base from catching. Switch off the heat and rest, still covered, for 10 minutes.

Check that the chicken is cooked through (the thickest part should reach 75°C and the juices should run clear). Fold the biryani gently from the sides to the bottom with a flat spoon so the layers mix without breaking the rice. Serve with cucumber raita.