Dan Dan Noodles

Toast the Sichuan peppercorns in a dry frying pan over a medium-low heat for about 1 minute, until they smell floral and citrusy. Grind them to a fine powder and tip into a small bowl.

Whisk the sesame paste with 4 tbsp of hot water until smooth and pourable. It will stiffen at first, so keep whisking. Whisk in 4 tbsp of the soy sauce, the black vinegar, sugar, 2 crushed garlic cloves and half the ground Sichuan pepper.

Divide the sauce between four deep bowls and spoon 3/4 tbsp of chilli oil into each, stirring in the sediment too.

Rinse the preserved vegetable briefly under cold water to remove excess salt, squeeze it dry and chop it finely. Finely chop the ginger and the remaining 2 garlic cloves.

Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the pork, spread it out and leave it for a minute before breaking it up. Fry for 6 to 7 minutes, until the liquid has cooked away and the meat starts to brown.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the ginger, garlic, rice wine and preserved vegetable and keep frying, stirring every minute or so, for another 6 to 8 minutes, until the pork is dark golden, dry and crisp at the edges. Stir in the remaining 1 tbsp soy sauce for the last 30 seconds.

Cook the noodles in a large pan of unsalted boiling water until just tender, following the pack time (usually 3 to 5 minutes). Add the pak choi for the last minute. Scoop out a mugful of the cooking water, then drain.

Divide the noodles and pak choi between the bowls, on top of the sauce. Add 2 tbsp of the noodle water to each, then top with the pork, sliced spring onions, the rest of the ground Sichuan pepper and extra chilli oil. Toss everything together from the bottom of the bowl before eating, so each strand is coated.